Casco Viejo, Panama: What to See and Where to Eat
A practical guide to Casco Viejo: how the old town is laid out, what to see, when to go and where to eat well.
Casco Viejo â officially Casco Antiguo â is the old quarter of Panama City, founded in 1673 after the original city was sacked by Henry Morgan. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site, about ten walkable blocks of colonial and French-colonial architecture, and it holds the densest concentration of restaurants and rooftops in the country.
How the quarter is laid out
Think of it as three layers:
- The plazas. Plaza de la Independencia, Plaza Bolívar, Plaza Herrera and Plaza de Francia anchor the district. Everything is within a ten-minute walk of one of them.
- The interior streets. Calle 8, Calle 9 and the lanes between them hold most of the small restaurants, bars and shops, in restored houses.
- Avenida A and the edge. The entrance from the Cinta Costera, with larger venues, valet parking and easier access by car.
What to see
The essentials take an afternoon: the Metropolitan Cathedral on Plaza de la Independencia; the ruins of the Church of Santo Domingo with its famous flat arch; Plaza de Francia and the vaulted walkway of Las Bóvedas, with the best view of the modern skyline across the bay; and the Panama Canal Museum, which explains the thing that built the country.
Walking the streets is the point, though. Half the pleasure is the contrast: restored mansions next to buildings still waiting their turn, and the city’s glass towers glittering across the water.
When to go
Late afternoon into evening. The quarter is hot and quiet at midday, comes alive around five, and is at its best between seven and eleven. Rooftops fill for sunset â arrive before six if you want a table with a view.
December to April is dry season and the most comfortable. From May to November expect a heavy shower in the afternoon that usually passes within the hour; a covered terrace makes it irrelevant.
Where to eat
The range is unusual for ten blocks: Panamanian, Peruvian, Spanish, Italian, Argentine and several fusion kitchens. Two practical rules â book Thursday to Saturday, and decide first whether you are arriving by car, because parking inside the quarter is genuinely difficult and the venues near Avenida A are the ones with valet.
For Panamanian cooking specifically, Aya la Vida sits in Edificio La Cuadra on Avenida A and Calle 12 Oeste, with an open-air terrace, live music and a menu built on ceviches, grilled octopus, tamal de olla and Panamanian desserts.
Frequently asked questions
Is Casco Viejo walkable?
Entirely. The whole quarter is about ten blocks and you can cross it in twenty minutes. The streets are cobbled, so wear flat shoes.
How far is it from the airport?
About 30 minutes from Tocumen International outside rush hour, which makes it viable even on a long layover.
Is it safe at night?
The tourist core has a constant police presence and stays busy until late. As in any historic quarter, stay on the streets with people on them.
Do I need to book restaurants?
Thursday to Saturday evening, yes. Earlier in the week and at lunch you can usually walk in.
How long should I spend there?
An afternoon covers the sights. An evening covers the reason people come back.
Keep reading
- Where to Eat in Panama City: A Local Guide
- Panamanian Food: What to Eat in Panama City
- Seco herrerano: que es y como se toma
Aya la Vida is in Edificio La Cuadra, Avenida A and Calle 12 Oeste, Casco Antiguo, Panama City. Menu and opening hours on its official site; book a table here, see the menu, or plan a Copa stopover. You may also like Aya la Vida en Restaurant Panamá.
Reserva tu mesa en Aya la Vida
Cocina panameña de autor en el Casco Antiguo de Ciudad de Panamá, Edificio La Cuadra, Avenida A y Calle 12 Oeste. Terraza al aire libre y música en vivo de jueves a sábado.
